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First and foremost, don't try to burn water. This sounds silly but it is the most fundamental thing to consider when you are burning wood. It might surprise you but green wood is up to 50% water. Putting it another way, for every Kg of green wood you try to burn, you are in essense adding around a pint of water. Drying you wood properly is key to make sure you have a safe, efficient enjoyable fire.

If you do have green wood, you can dry it yourself. The wood should be stacked properly so that air can circulate through the entire stack. You should put a cover - tarp - over the top to keep rain out but  do not completely cover the stack as that will prevent air from circulating through the stack. Cord wood should be dried a minimum of 6 mos before attempting to burn it. There are moisture metersavailable so you can determine the mositure at any point in time. 

If you are buying your wood, you can use the moisture meter to check the moisture content before you make the purchase.

Control the air that enters the stove:

The air entering your stove enters in two areas. Primary air feeds the bottom of the fire bed and secondary air mixes with the gases coming off he burning wood. About 80% of the heat obtainable from burning wood is in the form of the burning gases off the top of the fire. Obviously then the secondary air is more important than the primary air.

If you have a control for secondary air, never close it completely. Closing it will almost guarantee an efficient, dirty burn resulting in chimney build up as well as dirty glass door.

The only time you may want to leave the stove door open is when you are starting the fire. Leaving the door slight adjar will cause a rush of air across the bottom of the fire and help to get the fire going more quickly. Leaving the door open any other time will great diminish the heat output and efficiency of the stove. 

Your stove burns at its most efficient state when it is burning hot. A small hot fire is much preferred over a large smoldering inefficient fire.